It used to be called Brutals - which is true. It is.

One of the most scenic breaks in Orange County. It's pretty good wave but not as good as looks at first glance. It never really barrels. It looks like it will but never does! Lol. The water color here

It was glassy all day and a pretty good size south swell

Bright and sunny with some good waves I really like it here. The water is really beautiful and the park is really pretty with lots of trees and plants and grass. It's a comfortable place. Lots of shade

The older you get, the more your birthdays can absolutely suck. I don't like the fuss, if I'm honest. Trying to keep other people happy on my birthday by pretending I enjoy the obligation of celebrating

The swell of the winter went down in late July for the East Coast of NSW, Australia. Overall it was a pretty poor winter in terms of swell consistency, however this swell went above expectation and we

If you want some beginners' surf now is the time to get over here

Yesterday we farewelled Dad. It was a beautiful service and I am so relieved to have read my father's eulogy. I hate public speaking but I wanted to do this, a last thing I could do for him. Damn, anxiety

I have been so extraordinarily lucky to have never lost a person so close to me that it shattered my heart. However, because of this, grief has knocked me sideways. This morning I woke up and could barely

My uncle George wrote this for his brother, my Dad, who passed away yesterday at home in Torquay. He wanted it to be shared somewhere where those that might have known Dad to see it (he doesn't do Bookface,

sup surfers I tried to surf this weekend. surfing is not easy. there are many things about it that are tricky. you have to first paddle out on your stomach. then you need to go over the waves to get behind

I just got back from an amazing trip last week to the longest wave in the world in Chicama, Peru. We did two 3-hour two sessions each day for 7 days straight. The schedule was brutal, getting up early

The sun rose on what was set to be an extraordinary sports day. The energy was palpable as athletes gathered, each ready to test their limits in a series of thrilling events. From the sandy shores to the

Avisala! It's been a while since I posted something and I honestly don't know where to start. Everything feels so foreign here and I feel like a newbie who's eagerly learning and trying new things. I guess

Reflections on living the dream. Can you build the life of your dreams? I hope you do.

I learned to surf here back in 1968.

This is from a tropical storm of Baja California. It got pretty good at some places for a couple of days.

A tropical storm off Baja kicked up some consistent fun waves.