THE WEEKEND
10 August, 2018 00:00 00 AM
Our destination was Swarupkathi upazila in Pirojpur district in south-western Bangladesh. Swarupkathi means ‘beautiful port’, but it is now officially named Nesarabad after Haji Nesaruddin, a renowned Islamic scholar of the area. We left Dhaka in the evening aboard a three-storied modern ferry, MV Agradoot, from Sadarghat river terminal. After about two hours, as we cruised into River Mehgna, we relished a sumptuous dinner with prawn and chicken curries, mixed vegetables, beef ‘bhuna’ and all types of bhorta (mash). We engaged in idle gossip and enjoyed the river cruise as we sipped tea or coffee.
In the early morning, as we cruised leaving behind the mighty Meghna and navigated through the Shyandha River, we were charmed by the mesmerising beauty of the countryside dotted with coconut, betel and banana plantations. It was a delight to find dolphins displaying acrobatic feats in the middle of the Shyandha.
We reached Inderhat (Miarhat) river terminal at Sutiakathi union and as soon as we landed, we could smell the natural fragrance of Mother Earth. We were greatly impressed to find Sutiakathi a very developed and clean town, with intricate networks of canals amidst dense forests and all urban facilities.
The very first morning we went on a canal cruise to Atghor Kuriana _ famous for its floating market and guava gardens. The entire landscape exudes a serene, natural ambience with intricate network of rivers, estuaries, canals and marshlands. A perfect place for eco-tourism.
The area is highly forested with mahogany, shegun (teak), sal, gurjan, rain tree (randi) and chambal trees, as well as fruit trees like guava, banana, aamra (hog plum), chalta (elephant apple), gab (velvet apple), jamrul (water apple). The area is equally famous for betel leaf and betel nut plantations.
We came across fishermen catching fish and country boats loaded with goods of all kinds destined for various places. Logs were seen being towed along the river. The calm, tranquil fresh water in the canals, with swaying coconut and betel nut plantations along the banks, was indeed inviting. It was highly refreshing as we sipped coconut water in a guava garden.
The following morning we dashed to Sutiakathi’s floating market, famous for tree saplings, fruits and vegetables. Almost all items are traded on boats, even fish, timber and coir products. Vendors were found selling all types of local fruits and vegetables, including coconuts, bananas and watermelons.
I found the age-old floating market more vibrant and colourful and more close to nature than the floating markets of Bangkok and lakes of Kashmir. To our surprise, we also came across a booming ship-building industry in the area that is little-known to the rest of the country. Amazing!
The region is haven for fish-lovers. However, bulk of the fish caught, including ilish (hilsa), pangash, koral and different freshwater fish like iyer and ruhi, end up in Dhaka or abroad. During our visit, I must confess we enjoyed some mouthwatering fish dishes, particularly hilsa with mustard, ilish polau, prawns and small fish wrapped in banana leaves, and almost all items cooked with coconut milk. Awesome!
Historically, the area has attracted timber merchants from afar. It has been a busy timber port for a long time. Valuable logs of sal, teak, gurjan and lohakath were brought here from places as far as India and Myanmar. The proximity of the Sundarbans has also contributed to the growth of the timber industry. Now, locally grown rain tree, mahogany, sal, gurjan and chambal provide enough timer to sustain the timber yards at Inderhat and the industry currently extends along the banks of several neighbouring unions, such as Shoagdal, Balihari and Rajapur.
Swarupkathi is known for its business centre and for the sundari tree, a mangrove species that grows there. It is possibly the largest timber market in the south of the country. I was told by a local leader that logs were purchased in Gauhati and Darjeeling in India and floated down the mighty rivers before finally reaching Inderhat. Houses, boats, furniture and various sport goods, like cricket bats and carom boards, are all produced from wood sold locally.
In the evening, we found time to visit some of the agricultural complexes that combine poultry and fisheries. It is a booming industry and almost all products are destined for the capital or export overseas. We also found time to visit Guccho Gram, a cluster village developed by a local philanthropist. A commendable initiative.
We embarked on a canal cruise yet another morning to Boithakata through Shoagdal and Balihari unions. Across the Shandhya River, we availed a three-wheeler that took us to the Dargah (shrine) of Sarsina Peer Saheb. Later, we visited some of the nurseries on the Swarupkathi-Barishal highway. Miles after miles of fruit, flower and vegetable nurseries add to the beauty of the panoramic landscape. Interestingly, almost all the nurseries in Dhaka are owned or run by people from Swarupkathi. Further down, we visited the mosque at Guthia _ one of the finest in the country.
In the evening, it was time again for a canal cruise, dubbed as ‘night safari’ by our friends.
Later, we treated ourselves to desserts, such as hot succulent rasgollas, jilapi, coconut pitha and tea prepared with fresh cow milk, in possibly one of the most vibrant and colourful bazaars in our countryside.
Swarupkathi has one of the highest literacy rates in the country. Proximity to Kolkata through the now redundant steamer route and contribution of dedicated teachers is largely responsible for the spread of education in the area.
The local people are mostly engaged in agriculture, poultry, fishing and the timber trade. Most of the houses are elegantly built of wood and the doors and windows are beautifully carved by artisans. The coir (coconut fibre) industry is a monopoly of the area, catering to the need of door mats and ropes across the country.
Sutiakathi can only be reached by waterways from Dhaka and the rest of the country. Only recently, three-wheelers, locally called easy bikes, and motorcycles have started plying in the town, much to the annoyance of the local populace, in an otherwise calm and tranquil neighbourhood. The area deserves to be recognised as one of the high-end destinations for eco-tourism and it is imperative that public and private enterprises put some serious thought and consideration into it.