The whole scene seemed out of a Murakami novel. But when you’re at Jigokudani’s snow monkey park, there’s a strong chance this will cross your mind. Especially in rain season, when fog and rain brews together an extra tone of dark green to the forest and gives a ghostly atmosphere to the valley. However our silver lining came in the form of an entire park to ourselves. Close to the hot baths, the alpha male of the monkey clan and the park keeper were sitting still. Side by side, they contemplated the rain in absolute silence. Unacknowledged but present, there were traces of a brotherly relationship between species.
The way to the park was not short of mystical, and from the whole day it will probably stay in my memory the longest. Coming from Tokyo and after a couple of train rides, we were at Yudanaka station. It’s one of those remaining places that makes you wonder if any GPS in the world would be able to track you. At the bus terminal still unspoiled from modern times, the view was invaded by the Alps calmly melting in the mist, while the pine trees seemed to be floating at a distance. After a while, time came to enter the red and creamish local bus for the last segment of the trip.
Soon enough I was wondering if I stole a seat in a time capsule instead. The route almost swallowed me in the countryside’s hidden beauty. A journey mostly uphill, crossing through a serpentine of forgotten streets. In them, small houses of wood took shelter from the weather with their generous rooftops coloured in a humble grey. From time to time, there would be a shop open, with sun-drained billboard’s outside, most likely from the 80’s. Perhaps time froze in this region, alongside with its way of life and ideals. People kept getting in and out of the bus, nodding to the white-gloved driver like old acquaintances. Some were old ladies, healthy as teenagers carrying some local fresh vegetables to their homes. Others were small kids coming from school, with immaculately clean uniforms. On their backs they carried Japan’s destiny in shiny leather backpacks, polished to perfection. You don’t worry for their futures, nonetheless you’ll be forced to suspect their age and wonder if they’re kids at all. As the bus quietly marched up its last stretch, the Jigokudani valley gloriously unfolded from its veil of mystery.
As they say attention is in detail, and Japan takes this saying very seriously. Whatever lays before you, it will always reveal a glimpse of what defines the country.
My thoughts were suddenly interrupted by a hot thermal splash. The suspects are the latest addition to the park. A few infant macaques seem to be disputing and displaying each other’s swimming abilities. The keeper and the alpha male don’t seem to approve the anarchic behaviour on the hot baths, but don’t intend to move either. Sometimes it’s better to stand still and just enjoy the rain.