''Take responsibility for your choices''
Expedition to The Avalanche, Pacotes.
Survival Zone
Yo, good morning Hive! Have u drink some water today?
Today I'm going to share with you a historic event for me... I surfed Avalanche, the most beautiful wave I've ever seen in person, and the biggest wave in Brazil.
In this post I'm going to talk a little about my experience at Avalanche, Ilha dos Pacotes, as well as all the plannin to get there, and the brutal bodyboard team @nfxbodyboard just insane!!!
07:30 am
I was waking up and starting my day, my practices, but before that I opened my cell phone, an addiction to be broken. That's when I started talking to @luizhadad and praising the wave I saw a few days ago, giving the brother a positive vibe. Talk goes on and on, Luizim said that I should visit the Avalanche wave someday... and I replied, of course my brother, when it's possible for me I'll go. And he replied, let's go today! Come here now to Padaria Nossa Senhora da Penha.
What no one knows, I had some work to do, but surfing Avalanche with a friend calling out of nowhere is a unique opportunity.
And coincidentally I had wet surf shorts in the car, just like the ARDRP jacket and my asymmetrical parallelogram 5'8, which I had surfed the day before.
So, not ideal equipment at first for these conditions, but... come on! "It's going to be incredible to watch them surf" I thought.
09:00 am
After meeting with Luiz, Bernardo Martinazzi, @fabiosandres , and the insane guys from @nxfbodyboard @carlosbellumat @bernardonassar e #brenim, we set out in search of the long-awaited experience... grab a tube, or 2, or 3, you'll know how many these guys get for session.
Honestly, I had never thought about avalanche surfing, but I really admire perfect, heavy waves and high-level athletes performing. So, let's go. We left Porto do Ribeiro, a small beach in Vila Velha Espirito Santo and divided the group between a boat and a jetski.
09:30 - 11:00 am
So... we arrived at the peak and it was kind of flat, I remember someone said they had seen some good ones breaking... I believe I arrived on a day that was right for me, as I believe it was the lowest possible swell condition for the wave of the avalanche actually worked, and the result? Check out this photo above with Carlin coming on this indecent wave.
I didn't even want to surf, I don't have much experience with Town-in, paddling? I didn't even consider it, but I jumped into the water to see them surfing up close, that's when they called me to get closer to the wave impact zone, the lineup to feel a little of the vibe.
And when I saw it, I was there with 2 completely gnarly local guys in the lineup of a bizarre wave in the middle of the ocean. Their vibe was so good that I didn't feel bad at any point. I respect Mother Nature a lot, so I try to know how to get there and leave in a peaceful way.
It didn't take long for me to feel more comfortable in the sea and take risks on the waves, and I found the wave to be a mix between a place I surf in the north and D2, but much stronger and more unpredictable.
It just happened, catching a little barrel in the Avalanche with my asymmetrical Board, shorts and ARDRP neoprene.
It's really funny the moments I've spent with my ARDRP asymmetrical boards designed with my Maze Surf Crafts shaper, because I know it's not always the best condition for them, but they're always with me, so I risk catching a wave and I'm surprised , this didn't happen just once, I'm about to say more than 10 times for sure.
After I caught that wave above, my fin simply disappeared from the board, and I went flying, and that was the end of the session for me. But the feeling I had was just one: Gratitude.
This was the guy who put me on this experience, this and other very good ones! gratitude and MAHALO ocean head, union brings strength.
All the frames was shoted by #ghprofile
I would like to pay tribute and consideration to @nfxbodyboard because they are real. Honest, hard-working people who make things happen despite adversity.
And their joke is: If you throw some giant bombs, inside an oceanic dungeon and come out in a puff, I believe that these guys' metabolic level must be high, and syntropic, because it's an explosion of feeling super beneficial to the mind and body . The mlk welcomed me like a kind of younger cousin? Thank you very much, guys, keep exploring and making history in these absurd and unexplored waves.
Backside cutback asym paddle
11:30 am
Feeling stocked self
It looks like he's a big rider, right?
But no, he's just an explorative surfer who has been trying to make the most of things with a certain coolness but without losing connection with the essence, all the opportunities and surfable waves that appear in front of him, without forcing anything.
But, if a good one appears in front of me and I'm in good condition, I'll Barrel deep, dacing.. .
ALOHA!
I hope you enjoyed this report of a memorable day.
