Born just outside Valencia, architect Santiago Calatrava was already a superstar when he started work on the Palau de les Arts Reina Sofía, one of many buildings which comprise the City of Arts and Sciences. Before turning his sights back on his Valencian homeland, he had finished the Auditorio de Tenerife, The Lyon Airport Railway Station, the Turning Torso skyscraper in Malmö, winning wide praise and a reputation as a maverick, able to pull off wild new ideas with a futuristic, unique flair.
If you’re a frequent reader of our blog, you might know that we have complicated feelings about Calatrava’s work. We’re far from groupies, but somehow we find ourselves in places where he’s already left a mark. Oviedo (the Palacio de Congresos), New York City (the World Trade Center Transportation Hub), Lisbon (the Gare do Oriente), and most recently Mons, Belgium (the new train station). His creations are always a spectacle and each project has its fair share of drama as well.
And we’re here for the drama! Calatrava is notorious for going over budget and for the opera, he stayed true to this reputation. The final tally was over four times the original budget. And while the white mosaic tiles were certainly striking, they were also capable of striking people: on windy days, they tended to fly off the opera house, and the entire facade had to be redone with a new binding material. The problems went so far, that Valencia dragged the architect in front of the courts.
However, instead of learning from this experience, Valencia commissioned him for even more buildings in the City of Arts and Sciences: the Science Museum (rumors says he forget to plan in bathrooms) and the L’Àgora (whose minimal floor space makes it nearly impossible to use for any event). And then two more bridges! It seems like working with Calatrava is akin to addiction. Once you’re hooked, it’s hard to get away from him, despite the cost and hassle.
Then again, the City of Arts and Sciences is estimated to generate over €100 million per year in revenue from tourism. And we understand why: the construction drama notwithstanding, this is an otherworldly place. The CAC is unlike any other “neighborhood” in the world, and has come in part to define Valencia in the eyes of the world. Wandering around the complex is stunning, especially during the sunset.
But to loop back to Calatrava’s Opera House, we had long admired its bizarre shape from the exterior — like a massive dragon’s egg just starting to hatch. But finally we had the chance to explore the interior, while attending a concert which was held at L’Auditori, one of four venues inside the complex. From the inside, it’s just as beautiful. Take a look at the photo gallery; we can say with some confidence that you’ve never seen an opera house quite like Valencia’s.
From our Travel Blog.
